Monday, August 27, 2018

PowerTech CD 7000 CD 8000 Generator - Front Pulley Seal Leaking

So now my PowerTech CD 7000 Generator is leaking oil from the front pulley seal, which is on the side opposite from the generator head.

The motor is a Kubota Diesel D905-E

Could not find any definitive information on what Oil seal to use.

The amazing David at Oddessey Power in San Diego helped me find the right front oil seal!!!

This is the picture of the packaging . . .  $~25.00 . . . whatever I needed it.



So once I took the radiator off and got to the blower fan, I used an impact gun to take off the blower wheel.

When I took off the wheel I could see the front pulley.  It came off so easily in my hand I didn't have time to look to see how it goes back on.  I just assumed it was keyed or something.  No matter something to worry about later.


 The above picture is after I took the seal out with a screwdriver.  It came out really easy.





After looking at the seal seat, I saw some black gunk in the seat.  It was the felt from the front of the seal??  Some how it made it around the crank and was under the seal.



And it was plugging up the oil drain back hole . . . .  

I pulled all of the felt out of the hole.

UPDATE: 8/20/2018

DONT FORGET TO REMOVE THE SLIDING COLLAR AROUND THE SHAFT BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE SEAL - THE NEW SEAL WILL FAIL IMMEDIATELY - ASK ME HOW I KNOW.

I don't have a picture of just the collar, but its the ring around the splined shaft in the above picture.  It just slides and turns freely on the crankshaft.

1.  Install the new seal.

Super easy install.  I used a socket that cleared the crank and fit the seal diameter.

2.  Lube the collar with engine oil -  put some on the seal also if you can.  It won't hurt.

3. Then slide the collar over the shaft and push it through the seal.  The collar pushes the seal inward and seats the seal to the collar.  

UPDATE: Finished.





Now for installing the pulley . . . its not keyed and its not obiously marked. Its definetly counterweighted so I know it goes on only one way.  

Need to look at it again.  One of the above pictures of the end of the crank has a punch mark, the pully MUST be marked.



Hmm the aluminum washer doesn't look factory blue . . . what happens if I pop it off.

Yep.  There is the corresponding mark on the pulley.

Todd







Ford Triton 3V 5.4l Knocking Noise - Diagnosis Process - Failed Cam Phaser

Ford Triton 3V 5.4l Knocking Noise
Failed Cam Phaser


My 2012 Expedition motor seized late last year.  Something broke in the timing chain set . . . never bothered just knew the motor was interfeared.  Ordered a new motor online.  Swapped the engine in myself with the help of my neighbor and Son.  Lots of work, but easily doable on the 2012 Expedition.

But . ..  the engine had a knock that developed as soon as the oil started to warm up???  Weird.

The engine manufacture said it would likely go away . . .  It didn't.

After 500mi it didn't still,  so I started to try to figure out how to diagnose it.

I knew it was either the back cylinder or the 2nd to back cylinder.

It was also knocking at 1/2 engine speed at idle.  aka 250 knocks per minute.  I just used a stopwatch and counted out an interval of about 5 seconds, so I knew that was on the valve train, not on the crank.  Camshafts turn at 1/2 engine RPM.

Still didn't know which cylinder it exactly was OR what the cause was. 

I knew I had to see the valve train with the engine running and try to determine which cylinder had issues.

So I improvised . .. I went to a junk yard(its been about 20yrs) and found a valve cover from an early 3v triton.  Not exactly the same bolt layout, but that wasn't entirely important.

And I got out my demo saw . . .


I choppped of the part of the cover that would expose the camshaft and the valves.

Dont remove the part above the timing chain it will sling oil EVERYWHERE!!!

I could only really see the upper half of the valve train.

If you need to see more of the valve train then make a deeper cut, closer to the lower side of the valve  cover.  It actually doesn't need very much valve cover on the bottom to keep the oil in.

Make sure you keep all of the wire harnesses and goodies OUT of the valve train.  I used zipties to keep them out of the way.

Then I started it up.


Yep that's it running.  Thats the knocking noise it was making.  Slo Mo is cool also.

So nothing looks out of the ordinary, and is sounds like the knocking is coming from the intake valves based on the video . . .  you can't see the exhaust valve cam follower in the picture.

So while it was running . . . Disclaimer . . . . Don't do this unless you realize you can destroy your motor.  Disclaimer . . . 

I used a mechanics stethascope and listened on the cam journals and the upper part of the head(because thats all that was exposed).

I then was able to figure out it was the very back cylinder, and really loud on the head under the intake manifold.

Then I turned the engine off and started to try to see if any of the cam followers or lash adjusters were strange to the touch.  I could not tell a difference between any of them by feel.

Bigger Disclaimer . . .

I started the motor again.

Next, I used a 1/2 wooden dowel and gently pressed on the the last exhaust lash adjuster while the engine was running.  Ahh the sound changed!!!  I then tried it on a couple of the other exhaust valve lash adjusters for a sanity check.  No sound change on the correctly working ones.

Ok need to double check my work  . . . I ordered a lash adjuster from O'rileys.
A new lash adjuster doesn't budge under hand pressure or me leaning on it.

Next step, order a valve compression tool from Amazon.  This one worked for me . . .

Bullitt Autosport Valve Spring Compressor Tool for Ford 4.6 5.4 and 6.8 3V Engines 
by Bullitt Autosport 
Link: http://a.co/d/5k11VsE

I used the spring compressor to remove the cam follower and removed the lash adjuster with a magnet.  I also may have loosened some of the cam bearing caps just a millimeter or so.

I prelubed the lash adjuster and slipped it in.  Put the cam follower back in and fired it up.

NO more knocking.

Cue the Willie Nelson song - On the Road Again.

Todd