Tuesday, March 26, 2013

Kenmore Oasis Off Balance Spin Cycle - How to fix

Wow really long time since my last post . . . 2009????

Fixed lots of things just haven't posted . . .  perhaps I'll back-post :)

Our Kenmore Oasis Elite top loading washer has had a completely off-balance spin cycle for about a year now.  Now I admit that we have run probably several thousand loads of laundry through this washer (15-20 loads a week, no kidding) and except for the !@#$#% balance think it has worked really well.

The washer would try to balance itself by refilling the tub with water and agitating again, only to continue to have the same unbalance problem.  After 3 refill and drain cycles it would quit.

It finally got so bad we had to manually attempt to balance the load each time and only place like items together in the washer to make it spin.


I read a few repair sites but I wasn't convinced what the problem was until I opened it up and looked at the suspension and ball joints that carry the weight of the washer.

I popped open the top by pressing in on the latches (about 2" from either side of the washer) and propped open the washer.

Reached down and in-between the wash tub and the side of the tub and grabbed one of the suspension rods and pulled up a couple of inches to look at the cup and ball suspension joint.

Initial inspection they looked fine, but when you got close, you could see uneven wear on the "bearing"

Both the plastic ball AND the steel cup were scuffed and worn.  Essentially the steel cup rusted and the movement of the ball in the cup caused uneven wear on the ball.

This image is after the replacement cup was installed , , ,

Crazy as it sounds,  when all 4 of the corners of the suspension are worn differently it won't balance the washer!!!!

I ordered the wash tub suspension kit from SearsPartsDirect.com  ~69.00 delivered, with regular shipping.  Bonus:  The parts showed up 2 days earlier than scheduled!!


When the parts arrived the only difference between the old and new parts is the replacement insert for the cup that the top suspension ball is riding in.  This eliminated the original rusty cup and replaced it with a plastic insert that should make the ball and joint wear the same.

Its easy to replace the rods (10 min) . . . it takes time to take the top of the washer all of the way off so you don't break the water inlets(10 min to take it on then 10 min to put it back on)

I had to remove all of the water hoses, drain hoses and power cord.
3 screws on the back held on the top control panel. Remove any wires to the control board and set it aside.
I also undid all of the wires going from the lower half of the washer to the top half of the washer.
I also unscrewed the 2 hinges on the back so I could remove and lift the top half of the washer off.

With the washer empty, remove and replace one suspension rod at a time so the wash tub doesn't fall in.

Reach in and grab the rod and lift the rod up and remove the top ball joint by rotating and pulling it off.

Lower the rod and reach in deeper and with your finger or a screwdriver press the lower cup out of the bottom half of the suspension.  It will make sense when you see it.

Then remove the rod from the slot it rides in by moving it perpendicular to the tub.  Try looking at the bottom suspension with a flashlight.  Once you see it you'll understand it.

Now that the rod is out, press in the replacement top cup.

Place the new suspension rod back in the same way you took it out.  NOTE: you'll need to pull up on the rod to snap the lower cup onto the lower mount.

Now do the last 3 . . . took me all of 5 minutes.

Put it back to together.

Show the wife how cool and handy you are!!!

The wife is sleeping with the Maytag Repairman TONIGHT!!!


Update:  The washer balanced perfectly for a couple 100 more loads, then the basket/motor combination stopped being able to sense the clothes in the washer for the spin cycle(new problem).

We ended up going back to sears and ordering a new washer.